Friday, 20 March 2009

The 2009 Mac Mini

For quit a while now, I've been hearing and reading about people using the mac mini as a Home Theater set up. Most notably by Adam Christianson on The MacCast podcast (definitely worth listening to - lots of great Apple news , Q&A and interviews).

So, as you may or may not know, the mac mini was updated about a month ago and comes in a 2.0 or 2.26 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo. You can choose 120GB or 320GB hard drive and up to 4GB of RAM.

Today I stopped by the new Apple store in Greensboro, NC (finally open) (which is really nice, and I've heard the largest in NC) and purchased the 2.0 with 120 GB hard drive an added 1GB of RAM (for a total of 2GB RAM) for $50 and left it with them to install. The MacCast actually just had a bit about installing RAM into the mac mini on your own and the general consensus seems to be that you run a high risk of voiding your apple care if you do this. Bottom line, for $50, I just can't see saving any significant money by doing it myself, and I've got better things to do than pry open a new mac mini with a putty knife lol. It should be ready in a couple of days.

So why add the extra RAM and not upgrade the hard drive and the processor? Well, on the RAM - (and I'm not an expert and please feel free to correct me if I speak out of turn here) - from what I've read, it seems that with the new setup with the Nvidia graphics, the RAM gets split between the processor and the graphics card and with the 2GB of RAM the video will jump from 128MB to 256MB. (Also, people report the most you can get to the graphics is 256MB, so there doesn't seem to be a need to go above 2GB for this purpose, at least. Of course, if I'm wrong on this, just let me know.

The processor and the HD: Again, just based on other people's reports, some people claimed to have good luck with 1.8GHz and 1080p and others said that it was a little studdery (is that a word?) but that 2.0 GHz was definitely working well especially with the new Nvidia graphics card.

As for the hard drive space of 120GB versus 320GB, for me, at least, I have a TON of hard drive space , both internal and external, on the Mac Pro. What I am doing now is pointing the external drives which house the movies and TV shows to the public shared folder so the mac mini (and laptop) can access files from the Mac Pro desktop (which I'll talk about in a future post). A big part is to keep the cost down. I only really plan on using the mac mini as a video hub. Maybe some light internet surfing, but that would be about it. So really, there is no need for excessive hard drive space on the mini.

So lets take a look at some pics of the new model, and if you want to see and read more, click here for all the official specs and pics.









So that kinda covers the mac mini and what I'm getting and why. I think next is going to be all about the software. After that hooking up the mac mini to the Samsung TV and Onkyo.

Thursday, 19 March 2009

This is how it starts

My good friend John was in town this week, and we were talking about our respective Home Theater setups. I already knew he did a lot of torrents and was using a server (Vista based) to transfer over his TV shows to an MVIX , which then played on his TV. What I didn't know about, was that he had this system automated. I had wrongfully assumed that he was manually searching and downloading these torrents and I was being very slick with my Tivo setup. Clearly, I was wrong lol.

Basically, he has Mico set up as his torrent client and he has it setup with RSS feeds of tv shows he gets from TVRSS and he has it set to auto download new episodes. The more we talked the more I started thinking this was the way to go, and that my Apple TV isn't going to cut it.

My current set up is:

Samsung 46" 720 DLP
Tivo Series 3 HD
Onkyo Surround Amp with 4 HDMI inputs.
Apple TV
Sony BlueRay (ver 2.0)
Mac Pro desktop in a different room
Airport Wireless N router
Netgear XAV101 plug in ethernet adaptors (for making an internet hardline connection out of a wall plug)

For movies, my system was to take the DVDs and use MactheRipper (which is excellent) to rip into Video TS folders and save them onto an external drive as backup. Then I would use handbrake to convert them to Apple TV format and insert them into iTunes. After that, I would do a quick grab of the cover art, and copy paste the movie info into the meta for movie in iTunes and I could access the movies remotely from iTunes via the Apple TV and be good to go.

It was nice because now you can scan a ton of movies, see the cover art and read about it and decide if you want to watch or whatever - people loved it. But, it was a bit of work and one that you might miss is that you just have the movie and not the actual DVD - which means no subtitle access, or extra features.

So the Tivo is pretty obvious, and works great. And now they have Watch it Now for Netflix, which is is nice so you don't need a Roku box or Xbox.

So why am I changing? A few reasons.

1. The Apple TV system is not perfect. Its good, but could be better. To many steps to get the DVDs formatted properly, missing all of the DVD, etc..

2. The money - I am paying $80/month for Digital Cable and the basic HD package which has the major networks and a few other things like HDNet. Plus, $13/mo for Tivo. Which works out to $93/month or $1,116 per year. Over $1,000 a year for TV?!?! DAMN! Yes, that's crazy when you look at it like that. Especially when you consider I pretty much never watch TV unless it has been Tivo'd. I don't like to, nor have time to, just sit around and surf channels for no reason, plus I have grown to HATE commercials and like everyone already knows, there is never anything on TV anyway. So why am I paying $1,000 a year to watch Lost, 24, BSG, Top Chef and a few other shows? Especially when you can watch any of them for FREE the next day on Hulu or the network web sites.

I'll tell you why - because no one wants to huddle around a computer monitor with a bunch of friends. Although I have a nice 24 inch HD monitor, the 46 inch DLP is still nicer and with better sound.

Yeah, from time to time my GF and I have hooked up her macbook to the TV and it works great, but still, yo uhave to go through the process.

Which leaves me at the 2009 mac mini - and which is where I'll pick up next time :)

Tuesday, 17 March 2009

The Thrill of using Projector compared to LCD Plasma TV

The price of Plasma Display Panel and Liquid Crystal Display has been going down pretty fast since a year ago. More and more Full HD displays are out in the market for as low as RM3000 (32" to 40") or less.


For movie and home theater hobbist out there, PLEASE THINK TWICE before you put your hands on those Plasma and LCD. I strongly ask you fellows out there to consider getting a projector if you are planning to upgrade your TV to plasma/lcd.


I am not saying not to get Plasma or LCD. What I am trying to say is to recommend fellow home theater people to consider getting a projector rather than upgrading to LCD or Plasma. DSC_7574.jpg


Some people are saying projector lamp is too expensive when needed to replace after 3000 hours or so. Well, I am asking people who is building a home theater to get a Projector. If you are still Astro or TV1,2,3 person, I suggest you stick to the old big box tv or get yourself a cheap plasma tv if you are not planning to watch Full HD movies.


Why spend RM7000 ++ for a 200hz 40" LCD where you can get a 80" projector screen + HD ready projector (1080p upscaler) for less than RM4000. You save RM3000 where you can buy 3 - 4 lamps that gives you up to 10,000 - 12,000 hours more. If you are watching 1 movie per day (2 hours average), your 3000 lamp hours projector can last for 4 years (3000 / 720 hrs per yr). But Most importantly is the THRILL you are experiencing when watching a 40" Full HD LCD vs a 80" HD Ready projector. No matter how crisp or clear your full HD LCD is, you will never get the WOW FEELING when watching movie.


Some of you might be saying ...I can go for a 70" Full HD LCD and get the same feeling ..but 70" Full HD LCD will cost at least 10 times more than a 40" ...around RM70,000 + perhaps? With this kind of money, I can build you a dedicated home AV room fully equiped with RM30K power amp with THX Ultra2 + great 7.1 speakers. Plus another RM20K more, I can get you a FULL HD Capable Projector + 120" Full HD screen that is gurantteed to beat any full HD LCD or Plasma out there. But the most important thing is still the WOW and Thrill from big wide screen and good sound system.


Some of the pictures taken from a simple projection setup. Include a HDMI Projector that costs less than RM3000. Projector screen is custom made Fixed screen 73.5" 16:9 size. 5 DSC_7576.jpgmeters HDMI cable. A little help from the upscaler engine found in the Marantz SR5003 AV Receiver. Player is 1080P Network Media Tank with 1TB Hard Drive running Bluray "Open Season" as shown in screen shots.


DSC_7575.jpg










So, please think twice before upgrading your TV or lcd/plasma. Need further advice or enquiries, please stop by my shop to discuss on your ideal home theater setup.

Wednesday, 11 March 2009

1080P Media Players

I've been searching for 1080P Media player for months. Finally found one that has most functions and yet reliable (never hang). The size is small but enough to accomodate a 3.5" SATA hdd. I immediately pop a ntfs formatted 1TB hdd into the unit. Copied all my 1080p and 720p medias over.


NMT.JPG


Connect this NMT to my Marantz SR6003 via HDMI cable. Did some SETUP from the GUI and most importantly set the NMT to 1080P 60Hz output regardless if I am using a HD or Full HD display/projector. Graphic is flawless on my HD ready Plasma, Full HD LCD and HD/Full HD projector. Of course, the trick lies in the media file itself. I ripped a copy of my Bluray movie "Get Smart" using my PS3 (loaded with ydl). Copied the m2ts movie file that is 19GB over to my NMT. Play it.... n I got all the sound tracks where I can select using the remote control that comes with the NMT. It supports sub title but you need to use a remux tool to get the sub into another sub format and mux it back.


Quality: Full HD support is good enough even on Optoma Full HD 82 projector shooting at a 120" screen. Can't really see much difference between a high end pioneer bluray player that cost RM5000+. The black section is pretty good too although you might be able to notice slight noise if you stand 2 feet away from the 120" projected movie. On a 50" Full HD LCD or Plasma, you will not be able to tell the difference.


Sound: It supports DTS Master Audio and Dobly Digital TrueHD sound from the direct ripped m2ts BD movies. But I got some issues with several movies downloaded from the internet that were ripped, muxed and demuxed. So, I will not guaranttee it will work with all media but so far, I would say it can handle 90% of the medias.


Speed: Loading takes 1 minute from the time you switch the unit on to load a full 1TB HDD. After that, it only takes 3- 8 secs to navigate around the menu.


Remote: It supports fast forward up to 50x on DVD ISO rip and 8X on BD ripped. It also provides a SEEK function to jump into the scene if you know the timeline.


Other Functions: It supports online services such as online radio, youtube, RSS, torrent, etc.


I would rate this NMT 8.5 out of 10. Hopefully the next firmware will improve on the media supports and also improve on the loading speed. Otherwise, this is a 10 out of 10 product.


4 months of testing, I have never had a crash on this NMT and I've tested at least continously playing for 4 - 5 hours. No problem with heating as long as you are staying in a cool location (it has a built in fan too).


Need to grab yourself a unit? Contact Sound Fusion Sdn Bhd now for demo and details.

Denon Home Theater in a Box DHT390XP

Save your wallet without sacrifacing Sound Quality. Denon has introduced the latest HTiB (Home Theater in a Box), the Denon DHT 390XP retailed at RM2,599. The HTiB includes:




1. Denon AVR-390 AV Surround Receiver with HDMI (supports 1.3a Deep Color (30/36-bit)).




2. One pair Two-Way designs front speakers







Dual 8cm bass-mid drivers





2.3cm balanced dome tweeter Denon DHT390XP.JPG





Large wooden cabinet







3. One pair Surround speakers












8 cm full-range woofer





Wooden cabinet







4. Two-Way designs center speaker







Dual 8cm bass-mid drivers





2.5 cm balanced dome tweeter





Large wooden cabinet







5. 100 Watt Powerful subwoofer with a large cabinet and rich sound




Saturday, 13 December 2008

Are there audible benefits from higher-priced AVRs?

The premise that all AVRs sound the same, or that the differences are vanishingly small is a bit too generalized to be accurate. There are several reasons an expensive AVR could sound better than a cheap one. Here are some of them.

Power output. It’s not just the rated power per channel, it’s the rated power, dynamic headroom (the ability to handle peaks above the rated power) and the ability to drive multiple channels at the high dynamic peak level simultaneously. The most expensive single section of an AVR is the power supply. An inexpensive 7.1 channel AVR (8 channels), rated at 100W/channel is incapable of producing 100W from all channels at once. That would require an 800W power supply, minimum, and they don’t put those in cheap AVRs. The cost of such a power supply might easily exceed the total cost of some of those receivers. As the price of receivers goes up, one thing that improves is the power supply. Even $2000 AVRs sometimes can’t deliver full rated power to all channels simultaneously, but the better and more expensive the power supply, the closer to it they get, and can do so in at least the front 3 channels. It’s rare that a film soundtrack would require that ability in all 8 channels, especially if you have efficient speakers, or play at low volumes, but with less efficient speakers in a larger room, and playing sound at ‘reference levels’, the ability to drive all channels with full power becomes an issue.

Using the preamp outs and separate power amps can accomplish this goal. Any two channel power amps of decent quality is capable of delivering full power to both channels simultaneously, so using 4 external power amps results is higher simultaneous peak capability.
As a point of reference, THX Ultra2 Certified receivers are tested with all channels driven, and you won’t find one with less than 100W per channel, typically more like 130. THX Ultra2 is a certification that includes all audio components in a room of up to 3000cu ft. By contrast, THX Select2 receivers are power tested with only one channel driven at a time, and must meet lower peak current ratings. Select2 products are intended for rooms up to 2000cu ft, and are meant to be more affordable.

Could you hear the difference between an Ultra2 and a Select2 receiver? That depends on the size of your room and your speaker efficiency, but if played to THX reference levels, the answer is yes. More importantly, could you hear the difference between a THX Certified product and one that isn’t? Remember, it costs real money to design, develop and certify a THX product, money you wouldn’t have to spend otherwise on a similar product. Again, the answer is “yes”, and that would be not only for reasons of good and certifiable design, but also for reasons of THX processing in the line level stages.

Another power-amp factor, which is usually not specified, is output impedance, which directly relates to the amp’s ability to drive a complex load such as a multi-driver speaker. Low cost amps may have higher output impedance, and if the speaker’s load impedance is complex (most are), they will sound different than if driven by a higher cost, lower output Z amp stage. The relationship is not strictly cost, but in general, lowering output Z increases unit cost. Damping factor is directly related. Higher damping factor results in more ability of the amp to control the speaker, a generally desirable trait.

The line level stage in a receiver has little to no audible effect, and that includes the DACs. With the exception of exotic over-sampling techniques, noise shaping, etc., the fundamental limit to performance is the digital word length and sampling frequency. At 24 bits, a digital system is about at the limits of what can be done in the analog domain, in terms of noise and distortion, but at 16 bits, analog circuitry can easily surpass the performance of the digital system. By the way, noise is not a subjective quality. It is clearly audible, and the audibility of noise is well known. The audibility of harmonic distortion is also well known, but the threshold of audibility is not widely known to consumers. We are used to seeing audio devices with distortion figures in the .01% range, yet the typical listener only begins to hear odd-order harmonic distortion well above 1%, and that depends on the signal type. Even-order harmonic distortion remains inaudible up to 10%! Inter-modulation distortion (IMD) is perhaps more obvious that THD, but then it still has to be in the single whole-number digits to be heard, and is also signal dependant. Given all those figures of the threshold of audibility of distortion, no receiver should have distortion that would affect the sound subjectively. And you can include TIM in that too, it just shouldn’t be a problem.

This reduces the possible audible differences in receivers to three areas. First, the power supply’s ability to supply power to all channels under high demand, second, the amplifier’s ability to interface with a complex speaker load, and third, DSP functions in the line stage, like special processing, EQ, Audyssey, THX processing, and so on. Those functions depend on DSP programming, which is not at all fixed or even similar brand to brand, beyond standardized functions like Codecs and ProLogic, etc., and are all DSP functions are likely to be audible, most by design. DSP firmware of higher sophistication is more expensive to produce, and could potentially raise the price of an AVR. And, personal preference for certain DSP functions could drive a receiver choice.

So I surmise that you can get audible benefits from more expensive AVRs. Cost justification is the subjective part. For me, I hate to replace audio gear. I own my audio stuff for at least a decade at a time, barring radical changes in function (like the advent of 5.1, for example). I like my stuff to be built well, and to be as reliable as a wood-burning stove. That saves me money in the long run, but costs me money in the short-term. Sort of like buying a Toyota over a Ford. Sure it costs more, but if it lasts twice as long, it’s actually cheaper.

Monday, 3 November 2008

Does DTS vs DD really something that matters ?

Prior to this .. I'd always mistaken that DTS is actually belong to the same company as Dolby. Well it's not. This is a confession of a first time owner of a DTS/DD capabler AVR, the Harmon Kardon AVR1550. Honestly when playing a DTS and DD DVD movie .. i couldn't tell a difference between the two format. Both having a 5.1 Surround ... although from what is written in the Internet ... DTS is supposely superior due to higher bitrate or whatever that is .. still I couldn't tell a difference.

I'm not really a movie junkies per se, but I am a hardcore PS2 gamer whenever I'm off work. Unfortunately PS2 Pro Logic II, DTS or DD are scarce and even if those games that have it .. it's only during cut scenes. Who dig a cut scenes anyway ? Perhaps if it was full game .. then probably i would have notice the subtle differences.

But I do notice a huge difference in audio fidelity if I'm watching those movies without 5.1 surround. It sounded flat ... so no umpph .. Hence, what they shouldn't compare between DD or DTS ... it should be what AVR and what Speaker combination that counts. =)